I always love reading about Nepal. I've been a handful of times, for various short climbs and for some far longer 30+ day expeditions.
If you're reading this and need a short escape from life, I really recommend looking into doing the trek to EBC. It's extremely accessible (and cheap), and I've personally seen people as young as 8 y/o and as old as 80 y/o doing it and having the time of their lives.
I've been all over the world. Antarctica, climbing in Pakistan, trekking through the Middle East... Nepal was one of my first adventures and remains one of my favourites.
To stay on topic... Teahouses can be found along every route through the mountains. Most of my fond memories are in teahouses, where you get to sit, have a black tea, and reflect on just how beautiful the people (and the mountains) are. It's also a great opportunity to meet people from other cultures. I'll always remember the Russian's who bought me a beer after climbing Island Peak, the cards I played with some kids in Samagaun... I could go on.
I did EBC in late 2024, and I've done a few other treks, too. I will say that while EBC was great & I'm glad I went, it's far more commercialized & full of tourists than some other treks. I found the experience of other treks (Langtang Valley, Mardi Himal) to have a more intimate and cozy vibe.
Yeah, I've trekked the Annapurna circuit as well as EBC and was struck by just how much better Annapurna was. And Annapurna isn't exactly unpopular, just way less overrun than EBC and way more scenic
Annapurna Circuit has changed much over the years. It feels busier than EBC, because roads go all the way up to Manang and Muktinath, with only three days between them. And Muktinath is a big pilgrimage destination, with ~800k visitors a year.
I think it is just the draw of the word 'Everest'. I heard that you can't even see Everest from much of Everest base trek. Perhaps someone who has been can verify that?
It's true. Usually, the first time you see Everest is from the Everest View Hotel (a small hike up from Namche Bazaar) -- so around day 3, depending on your speed -- and then once or twice more on the approach to Gorakshep.
From there, you either hike up the Kala Patthar view-point which has that famous panoramic view of Everest, basecamp, and all the surrounding peaks... Or you trek around the canyon and begin the approach to EBC itself.
You can see it, but best views are from nearby hill called Kala Pathar. I presume you meant from Everest Base Camp, from EBC hike you can see Everest pyramid many times.
There is a very nice variant of EBC hike called 3 passes trek. Goes over 3 high altitude passes (5500, 5400, 5300m) on top of base camp, making a nice loop. A better challenge, once outside main valley just few people, and views are stunning, ie from Gokyo Ri, or north walls of Taboche or Cholatse. A difference between meh and stunning for me.
"Around Annapurna" with Mountain Travel in the early 1980s. I was in terrific shape (at sea level) and thus very surprised at how hard I was breathing after running 100 meters on the Thorong La Pass at 18,000 feet.
Indeed. A member of our trekking party of 12 or so got altitude sickness and had to be taken down to a lower altitude at around 14,000 feet. IRL he was a Canadian Mountie in great shape, in his mid-20s.
That's the kind of experience that makes one appreciate what Tim Macartney-Snape did, practically speed walking from sea level to summit Mt Everest w/out suppliementary oxygen.
Just another 80s trekker passing along a hello. I had the same experience as you describe nearing the top of Kala Patthar. Trekked outside of Pokhara too but did not do the circuit. Maybe we passed along the trail though ;)
Nepal is great. The people are generally very friendly. Kathmandu is very cosmopolitan. The mountains are stunning. I am going back again for the first time in 25 years. I'm doing a much gentler trek this time!
I've been to Nepal a bunch of times and I usually recommend just passing quickly through KTM to get to where you are going. The dust can be terrible and it is loud and polluted - the opposite reason to why most people generally want to go to Nepal. Better to spend more time in the mountains or Pokhara
It's winter here. That's mostly an issue during summer. Also, if you're out trekking, then that is a non-issue (especially higher up in the mountains).
Nepal is also an amazing culinary experience. The food has indo-chinese influence but is its own thing. Dal bhat is what regular people eat and is available in most teahouses and is the best thing after a hard day of walking. Also don't forget to try momos (I actually know someone who went recently and never tried momos in their entire trip! Only if we had spoken first!)
Dal bhat in Nepal is not unique to Nepal, it is also a huge Indian staple food, dal and rice in India, eaten in many parts of the country in various forms. Called dal chaval in Hindi states in north India, varan bhat in Maharashtra, and a variant called sambar sadam or similar in south India.
I have eaten both cuisines extensively and Nepali cuisine is very different from Indian and much better imo. Just because Indians eat dal bhat means little.
Your comment really accentuates the article. I'm glad the feeling I got reading the article was corroborated by your experience, and I hope to visit Nepal one day. Thanks.
If you're reading this and need a short escape from life, I really recommend looking into doing the trek to EBC. It's extremely accessible (and cheap), and I've personally seen people as young as 8 y/o and as old as 80 y/o doing it and having the time of their lives.
I've been all over the world. Antarctica, climbing in Pakistan, trekking through the Middle East... Nepal was one of my first adventures and remains one of my favourites.
To stay on topic... Teahouses can be found along every route through the mountains. Most of my fond memories are in teahouses, where you get to sit, have a black tea, and reflect on just how beautiful the people (and the mountains) are. It's also a great opportunity to meet people from other cultures. I'll always remember the Russian's who bought me a beer after climbing Island Peak, the cards I played with some kids in Samagaun... I could go on.
Go visit Nepal!